Possibly a permit
Check with your local building inspector.
It can be rewarding and doing it yourself can save you some money. But be prepared—pouring concrete is hard work and you’ll need forms, the rights tools and plenty of help.
If you’re still doing it yourself, continue reading for more tips.
As the concrete is unloaded, start with the concrete that was placed first and finish with the concrete that was placed last. (When working on a slope, work upwards on the slope.) Spread the concrete with a square ended shovel, a concrete rake or a come-along. Avoid using a garden rake or other tools that will segregate the concrete. Lightly tap the edges of the forms with a shovel or 2×4 to release air bubbles and consolidate the concrete.
Use the screed (ex: a straight 2×4) to level the concrete by resting it on the top edge of the forms, tilting it forward and drawing it across the concrete with a sawing motion—always keeping a little concrete in front to fill in low spots. Screed (or strike off) the concrete twice – while leveling and grading it also consolidates the fresh concrete.
Begin using the bull float as an area is screeded. Do this before the bleed water comes to the surface in order to ensure the durability of the slab. Draw the bull float over the concrete in the opposite direction of the screeding if possible. Push first then pull back to level the surface. One or two passes with the bull float will smooth the concrete without sealing the surface. [Warning: Over use of the bull float will seal the surface preventing the bleed water from migrating to the surface. It may form blisters underneath the surface which will delaminate and scale as the concrete ages.]
Bleed water will migrate to the surface from the fresh concrete in small pools. It will be reabsorbed or will evaporate. You must wait until the bleed water disappears and the surface becomes dull to begin the finishing process. Finishing while bleed water is present can cause blisters, crazing, dusting and scaling later on.
Use the edger and groover for the first pass when the concrete begins to firm up to form the rough shape. Round out the outside edges with the edger. Cut in joints with the groover (if you haven’t put in control joints) Guide the groover with a board on the first pass to achieve a straight line. (See Construct Joints in Concrete Slabs). Use the tools to push the gravel in the concrete mix away from the rounded edges. Repeat this process as the concrete hardens. The last pass polishes the final shape and smooths out inconsistencies. Avoid overworking the concrete—doing so will weaken the concrete.
If texture and a non slip surface is desired, use a concrete broom. Broom the surface by placing a dampened broom on the other side and gently and slowly pulling it toward you. Overlap strokes by six inches. If the texture is too rough or if clumps of concrete start gathering, the concrete is not ready. Smooth with a mag float and try it again in 15 minutes.
Curing should begin when it is possible to walk on it without marring it and consists of keeping the concrete moist by sprinkling or misting with water and covering with burlap or plastic. The concrete must be kept consistently wet. This should be done for 5—7 days depending on the temperature. This allows the concrete to gain strength by a chemical reaction called hydration. Or liquid curing compounds can be applied to seal in the moisture but are not recommended for concrete poured late in the fall.
Sealing compounds can be applied to provide protection from salts and water penetrating the concrete surface. It is recommended to seal exterior concrete such as sidewalks, patios and driveways. Again they are not recommended for concrete poured late in the fall.
The above instructions are only basic instructions for what can be a difficult job. Many variables can impact the success of your job. We strongly recommend that you read our Quality Control Section and visit the NRMCA website for further information and guidance in placing and finishing concrete.